Monday, April 25, 2016

Pneumatic paint canon! (updated 5/24/16)


That's how most of my ideas start out.....but usually change!
A company my brother works for, needed a paint canon for a color run, so I set to work!


I was thinking about designing my own quick/high flow electric solenoid, but do to time and money, decided to do the next best thing. (in my opinion)

I started with a 1 1/4 inch ball valve, and an used 1" bore air cylinder.  So with 100psi I'd have (.5'' x .5'' x 3.14 x 100psi ) 78.5 psi of pushing strength through the air cylinder, to open the ball valve.  Now the ball valve didn't take anywhere near 78.5 pounds to open,  but,  I didn't just want the ball valve to open, it needed to open fast.


Had an old key fob remote relay I got off eBay (really handy and cheap to have around, this is something similar - http://amzn.to/1Tyd2hm) So wired that into the 12v small air solenoid, it worked awesome!  Check out the youtube video at the bottom of the page.





Test fire video:


Saturday, March 12, 2016

Fixing some rust on a Ford f250!

Thought I'd Post some pictures of some body work me and my dad did, for anyone interested!
     The rust was a little worse then we thought, so we had to cut out more then we wanted, but it didn't turn out to bad.


The key is to save as much metal as you can!  But also cut out as much rust as you can!




Spray what you can with weld through primer before you start welding pieces in.  Because it'll be harder to get paint in there later.



Found some 20 gauge steel and snipped out a piece to match best we could, and welded it in!

You have to be careful welding on a big panel like that, to much heat, and it will likely try to warp it. 



Take you time and put as man tacks as you can, kind of moving from side to side, between welds to keep from building to much heat.


Next we took stuff that we call tiger hair and laid it on with a spreader.  Id recommend wearing gloves.


Blocked it down with 40 and 80 grit sand paper.


After a second coat of tiger hair, and making sure there was no pinholes,  we covered it with body filler.  You don't want any pin holes or else water will get to the body filler, and bubble it.  Fiber glass wont be affected by water.


We block sanded the body filler with 120 and 220 grit, then DA'ed it with 220


Primed it, and sanded out any more imperfections with 320 and 400 grit sand paper.





Next painted it.  Make sure you scuff anywhere paint and clear coat will touch, or else it wont bond well.   We put 3 coats on,  First coat where the primer was, next coat was over the first coat and out another 4-5 in.  3rd coat was over 1st -2nd coat and out another 5-6 in to help fade with original paint.


Then cleared it.


All done!



Thanks for reading =)
Comment with any questions!

Sunday, January 31, 2016

My free car - is it worth it? (Updated 5/24/16)

Feel free to comment with your thoughts, on whether you think one way is cheaper then another!

     

     So January 1st I was given a 97 Saturn SL1 with 170,000 miles.  I was expecting to pay $100 but when I met the dude at the notary, he said “just take it, Im glad to see it gone”.  My parents thought maybe he stole it and was trying to unload it haha.  It Did appear to have a bullet hole in the side of the door, covered in duck tape, but other then that, seemed like a normal old car.  Nothing pretty.  The point of this blog post to write down my expenses and work I have to do to the car and see if its actually cheaper to drive a old car and fix it up, or buy a new one.
So my first expense was the 15$ for gas to tow the car to my dads place, where he has a garage.  The second expense was the notary charge, which seemed like a lot.  124$ just to transfer a 100$ car (100$ is what we told the notary the sale price was)
     Before I bought it, I knew it would defiantly need some work.  But I did know it ran and drove, and didn’t knock or make any really bad noises.  The valve cover was leaking, and was for awhile, as was the oil pan.  The oil was completely black,  so I didn’t want to drive it to long before changing it.  The front and rear bumpers were replaced because they’re just plastic grey.  The clear coat is pealing at some spots.  The brakes work, but nothing to write home about.  The car does really look like a turd,  but if I can drive it and save money, then I’ll succeed at my goal!  
     Okay so the few good stuff.  The tires looked next to new, but not top of the line, not that I care.  The car has like no rust, mainly because its all plastic.  Which it probably why there is a hole in the door.  He most likely opened the door and hit something, and just cracked out a small piece.  The car was still inspected when i bought it, but only till the end of this month.  The interior stank, and needed cleaned,  but wasn’t stained or have any rips.
    So the first repair, was a vacuum line, going from the intake to the valve cover.  It was leaking and making a weird rattling noise.  That was a free and easy fix, seeing how we had some hose laying around that worked.  The second repair was the valve cover.  Who ever did it before just used rtv.  I went out and spent 30$ on a seal.  Took the valve cover off, and cleaned all the old rtv off with a die grinder, and a Roloc bristle disk which works really well.  Put the gasket in, put a thin coat of rtv on the seal, and tightened it down.  My next task was to change the oil pan gasket, which I "thought" would be easy.....But nothings easy. :p
     I jacked the car up, and went about looking at what would need done to drop the pan.  Well it turns out, everything.  First had to unbolt exhaust from manifold, and of course, I twisted off the head of one of the bolts.  Next unbolted a bracket that helped hold the trans, to the motor.  Yes!  Now I can drop the pan.... Wait I gotta unbolt the sway bar.  Oh and of course a side engine mount.  So finally got the oil pan down.  Cleaned it up, grey rtv'd it, let it set up a little, then squished it back up.  Going back together wasn't to bad, until I came to the part where, I had to (somehow) remove the bolt stuck in the exhaust manifold.  I tried (to many times) welding a nut to it,  But that bugger was tight!  (Also tried heating)  After spending more time then I should have, I unbolted the manifold, and drilled out the hole,  Reinstalled the manifold, with a 9$ Fel-pro gasket, then bolted the exhaust up with a new gasket there too (5$).
    So before I had taken the oil pan off, I had noticed a rattling noise when the car was in reverse.  It seemed to happen when, I had my foot on the brake (putting car under load).  After looking around, found it was the serpentine idler pulley.  And under further investigation, found it only had one bolt holding it on, allowing it to slack off and kinda bounce around a little.  I love being able to fix stuff for free! (used a bolt I had laying around)
    Took it out for a spin, and ran pretty good!  Its no luxury car,  but it works!  My next task was to get a battery,  It would die over night when it was cold.  I didn't feel like dishing out the money,  but after looking closer at the battery, noticed it was still in its 3 year warranty!!  Took it into pepboy, and bam! walked out with a free 131$ battery!! Haha I was so happy,  I love blessings like that!  So, pretty much as of now (If you take off the free new battery cost) I only got like 40$ in the car!
  I have my figures crossed that the cover, that covers the timing chain isn't leaking oil, so time will tell.  Goes in for inspecting in 2 days,  Hoping she passes!  Welp so long for now,  Ill be back with more updates as they come!  Thanks for reading =)
     I regret to say, it didn't pass.  Wipers were bad, and the exhaust flex  (20$) pipe was leaking.  So got a flex pipe, and hoping to put it in next time I have a few hours to spare.  This is when I wish I had a newer car haha.
     So, after a late night at work, I got the exhaust welded up, got some new cheap wipers,(10$) and headed off to get it inspected.  She passed! (60$).  Been driving her to work every day for the last week, 17 miles one way.  Checked the mpg and it was about 29 mpg, so not to bad!  One problem I have noticed is, when trying to start it, it can crank for awhile and start kinda rough.  But once running, it idles fine.  Friend of mine was saying maybe fuel pump is getting weak.  I'm thinking of checking the spark plugs, and maybe replacing them and see if that helps, cause I have no idea how old they are.
     Lately Iv been getting 32 mpg, which is awesome!

   

Monday, September 7, 2015

Custom belay bar!

     A friend of mine is building a rock climbing wall, and didn't wanna dish out the 100$ to buy a belay bar he saw online.  I tried finding one on amazon to show you, but this is all that came up - http://amzn.to/1K2s21t - Not even sure what that is.  Anyway.  Just for the record, unless you can fabricate pretty well, 100$ isn't that bad for a device that'll be holding your butt 25+ft off the ground.
    This is pretty much what I came up with after looking at the picture he had.  This is one of the project I hope DOES work! =P

I used 3/16 hot rolled steel for the main structure, and a piece of 1 1/2" drive shaft tube I got out of the scrap bin.  Not wanting the bends at a 90 degree angle, I went a tad wider.  I don't know exact degree, I just bent them to what I thought looked good, and used this handy and cheap tool (http://amzn.to/1NqK1FU) to duplicate the angle.  I don't use it much, but its well worth it, when i do need it.  
    It probably didn't need it, but I desided to weld a 1/8 X 1" flat bar across the top to really strengthen it up! Finishing it up, I tig-welded the tubes in and wire brushed it.  Hmm what color to paint them?





Friday, July 10, 2015

Cnc router build from scratch. (updated 9/28/15)

     Hmmm, I'm a little new to this blogging thing, but hey there's a first for everything right?  Just a warning I'm not the best at writing or grammar.  YOU BEEN WARNED!
So I guess I'll talk about my homemade/home-designed CNC router, cuz well, that's what I like to do.  Does your wife give you that "I heard this 1000 times" look too?  Every time you bring up your hobby to someone that'll listen to you?  Haha.  Anyway, as I get time ill try to post pictures of the building process.  Its currently completed now (7/11/2015) (Here's a YouTube video of it, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO20dkWkDqo ) but figured it'd be fun to go back and write about my build, for anyone that may stubble along my feeble blog. =P

P.S I'm finding blogger don't always let you arrange pictures in a nice format, so sorry in advanced!


 First linear bearing design.(Homemade)

     My first design was a homemade idea I had.  I bought some 1 3/4 delrin rod off amazon, ( http://amzn.to/1ijhiFW )  and with access to a lathe at work, lathed'er down.
I lathed it down so the center ridge would just so fit inside the t-slot grove.  Then added two pockets to push the bearings ( http://amzn.to/1ijgK2R ) in on either side.  Somewhere along the line, I found out i needed a spacer between the bearing, to keep them from binding when i tightened them down.
     I liked the idea of them being homemade, but like a lot of my ideas, they work better in my mind.  Do you ever have that problem?  haha.  So i may have been able to use them, but I just had a few concerns.  First, they would roll nice at some spots on the t-slot, but get tight at others.  Second, time.  It took me roughly 30-45 minutes to make one, and I would have needed 10 altogether.  Sooo, I decided to go with an alternative.













Second linear bearing design.(I just bought em)

    Man it's been 2 months since I last wrote.  Time fly's!  So anyway like I said in the last blog post...The homemade delrin wheels didn't fit my fancy.  So I decided to go with 3/8 V-groove bearings.  If you shop around ebay you can find some pretty good deals, though amazon has them too.  Here is a link to my amazon store. ( http://astore.amazon.com/cat05ff-20/detail/B002BBK2IQ )  I started an amazon store to group all the hobbyist style stuff I personally bought/used.  So anything on my store feel free to asked me about.  Anyway, the V-groove bearing worked perfect, and aren't extremely expensive.  But after buying 12, and a few extra for spares, it did seem to add up!
     I got the idea for V-groove bearing, after seeing a guy on YouTube using them.  He ran them on a piece of steel angle iron.  So I decided to dive into that method, and so far haven't regretted it.  What I did was, took 5/16 carriage bolts (http://amzn.to/1O3l3eL) and slid then down into the tslot.  Taking the angle iron to the milling machine, I drilled 7 holes.  Then set the angle iron on the tslot, so the threaded part of the bolt would come up though the holes.  Then bolted it down.


Next I milled a plate out of 3/8 steel, to mount the bearings to.  In the picture i'm using grade 5 bolts.  Later, after having the heavy weight of the gantry on them, I changed them to grade 8.  Maybe it was just me, but they seemed to be bending ever so slightly.




Cnc router frame.

     So i have a small obsession with bolting freshly made/new material together.  I guess because well, it looks awesome.  What more of a reason do you need?  
     So for the frame I went with aluminum t-slot, love that stuff!  Found it on a shelf at work and bought it for a decent price.  5$ a foot, which adds up rather quick.  I also used 1 1/2 x 1/4 steel angle to complete the frame, reason being...Its cheaper.


      











 Not sure what to say about these pictures.  I guess just look at em, and ask me any questions you have! =D


I found it really helpful to draw up all my pieces on a 2d cad program.  DraftSight.  There was a few times, when I wanted to look back on a piece I made, to copy, or to see dimensions to design a mating piece.


       





First Z axis linear rail.

My first design for the z axis, didn't work.  From the pictures you can kinda see what I was going for.  In theory it should have worked.  I used cold-rolled steel, which is suppose to be closer to tolerances. (then hot-rolled)  But after building the whole assembly,  The piece I wanted to slide (when all the bolts were tightened down) didn't slide.  Soo, I had to move on to something...better.

Yes, I used a soda can as shim stock.

     


      


  I used a 1/4 bolt as the bottom v-goove bearing tensioner, with a nut to lock it